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When your choosing snowboard products, it is important to find the right size, in boards, boots and bindings. Because even if you buy the best stuff you never get 100% out of the products if it is not the right size and tailored to your type of riding. The first thing you should do before you start to browse threw all the boots, bindings and boards is to figure out how and where you intend to go! Park, piste or off piste. There is a big difference between powder boards versus a board that is made to go on rails in the park.

Boots.

The boots are the most important part in a snowboard set-up. It's (almost always) the boots that determines whether you'll have fun on the slopes or not. It is also the boots that determines the length and width of the board you should have, and the size of the bindings. Choosing boots is not easy and takes some time. Be selective when choosing boots! Read about the boots you are interested in, to see if they may suit you.
Walk around with your boots at home and you will easily notice if there are any uncomfortable pressure points.

It is important to buy boots that fit your feet well. Measure your foot, and compare with the size chart for the boot you want to buy. Boots are available in different hardness’s. Soft boots are best for jibs in the park, while hard boots are better suited for more aggressive riding and bigger jumps. As a beginner you do not want to purchase for hard boots as they can inhibit one's Technology and Development. One should as a beginner choose a little softer and smoother boots.

Measure your foot like this: Stand with your heels against a wall and put something (eg a book) in front of the longest toe. Measure the distance between the wall and the book. This measurement is your foot length. Because your feet often have different lengths, you should measure both feet, and use the measurement from the longest foot.

Snowboard.

When choosing snowboard you should think about how you are going to ride. If you doing mountain slopes, you should choose an all-round board, but if your going to do rails in the park, you should choose a park / freestyle board.

The next step is to choose the right length of your board. A good benchmark is to buy a board that goes right under your chin, but are you a park and street rat, you can deduct some centimetres to get better control of Spins and presses. The disadvantage of a shorter board is that it becomes less stable at speed. If you’re a real powder-freak that dreams of epic powder days and / or when the best thing you know is that Euro-carve in a new-pisted hill? Then you can usefully put on a centimetre to get the maximum buoyancy and control. Many brands often have a recommended riders weight, which is appropriate to follow. Remember that it is only a recommendation, a few pounds up or down is not the whole world. Are you a bit too heavy the board will be perceived only a little softer and vice versa.

It is also important to select a board that has the correct width for you. If you have big feet, it is good to buy a little wider board, these boards are often called "wide" and are a little wider to reduce the risk of toe / heel moves. I.e. when the toe / heel takes in snow when turning. Here is another good tip ; If your boot size is larger than US10 (43) you should have a wider board. With this we mean, over 25 inches in the waist of a normal length board.

Bindings.

When you're buying bindings, it is important that you buy the right size and the right flex. If you already have a pair of boots so the choice is pretty easy! The bindings should be as tight as possible, but the pumps and the straps should not create pressure and end up at inconvenient places. Looking for good support, you should buy a stiffer binding. If you rather want have a more playful feel and a more forgiving binding you should choose a softer one. It is important not to buy a soft binding to a hard board, because then you have wont be able to push the power down to the steel edge, and the power will instead be used to bend the plastic of the binding instead.

Glossary.

Shape. The shape of the board.

Profile/Span. Determines whether the board has a traditional range (Camber), conversely span (Rocker) or a hybrid of the two (C2 / Gullwing / Flying-V).

Directional. Can mean two things, depending on which property you're talking about. If talking about the board shape, it means that the board has a longer nose and a little shorter tail. If speaking about the board flex (hardness) it means that it is a bit softer in the nose and a little harder in the tail.

Twin. Can mean two things, depending on which property you're talking about. Talking about the board shape it means that it is completely symmetrical in shape, and you can ride it either way. If mentioning the board flex it means that it is just as hard in the nose and tail. A board that is "true twin" is both twin in shape and flex. Perfect for park riding.

Directional Twin. A board that is a combination of directional and twin. There are two variants either form is directional and flexed twin or vice versa. Ie twin in shape and directional in flex. These types of boards are very versatile and fit over the mountain.

Waist. The width of the board measured in the middle. It is customary to divide the boards in normal or wide. It is important to choose the correct width to the board for its size on your feet, if you have big feet one should look at the wide boards. The dimensions may differ a bit between different brands, but the size US10 (EU 43) and up usually means that you need a wide board( over 25mm in the waist).

Camber. Traditional snowboards have a bucket with a part in the middle of the board which is located a little above the ground when you put the board on a flat surface (like on traditional slalom skis). This type of board is direct with a very good response, but requires a bit more of their riders. One needs to be more focused and determined, when it is not as forgiving, but gives you control it get much in return.

Flat Camber/ Zero Camber. This board has no range in any direction. Completely flat between the feet. This type of board is good for park riding. Not as "choppy" as a camber but with more response than a rocker. Can sometimes be perceived as a bit sloppy in high speeds, but as mentioned, this variant is designed for the park.

V-Rocker/Banana-Rocker. Conversed tension or rocker is something that came a few years ago and has become huge. Excessively talking this board looks like a V from the side (or like a banana). Unlike a camber the pressure is not in the nose / tail, but between the feet. The board is very easy to ride and easy to turn with instead of "chopping" so if you fall forward / backward it cords around. This design is suitable for very many types of riders, beginners like it because it is easy to ride and park riders because it is easily pressured and forgiving. When you don’t land your rotations absolutely perfect this can be the difference between "eating snow" or riding on.

C2/Gullwing/Flying-V. Dear child has many names. But easily said, it is a blend of camber and rocker. Conversely span underfoot to retain the playfulness and powder properties in a rocker-board and traditional camber between the feet to preserve the pope and give that power out of turns.